Thursday, August 12, 2010

Be well, do good work, and keep in touch.



The title of this post comes from Garrison Keillor's daily Writer's Almanac. He signs off with it after reading a poem. So here's one.

Today is, for all intents and purposes, the final day of our Israel/Greece excursion.
Tomorrow is a travel day.
We'll arrive home tanned, rested, and (I think) smarter and wiser.
With a bit more perspective. 
We've enjoyed each other's company.
We'll also be ready for a little less togetherness. 
In a couple of weeks, the kids will be back in school.
The Jewish High Holidays will soon be upon us.
And, before we know it, October 2 will have arrived.
Sam's bar mitzvah day.
The bar mitzvah was the original impetus for this vacation
But it has turned into something much more than that.
I'm not able to put it into words.
Except to say that I love my family truly, madly, and deeply.
We have wonderful, generous old friends.
And some wonderful, generous new ones.
Oh, what lucky little people we are!

Athens city center
Looking toward the Acropolis
They still stage opera here, 2,500 years after....
Samuelis enters the gate
Acropoli columnus
Ditto
Perspiring Jewboy Meets Athena at Her Temple. Film at 11.
Oedipus Wrecks?
Morgane and Ella...and friends.

Prof. Sherman & Assistant Professor Yanni Iobbi-Copp on the Greek Gods @ the Acropolis

Professor Sam Sherman & Assistant Professor Yanni Iobbi-Copp, on the Acropolis, explain how Athena was born from the head of Zeus....

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Prof. Sherman & Friends at Poseidon's Temple

Prof. Sherman receives an assist from some friends at Cape Sounion....

How to Do Something While Doing Nothing in Athens

We arrived in Athens early Sunday morning and were greeted by Kevin at the airport for the ride home.

The basic reason for our visit here was not to do more touring but, rather, to visit with our old friends. Kevin and Valerie had lived in DC in the early 1990s, while we were all getting started in our careers and married lives. We sort of grew up together as couples. We knew each other before we had kids and we had big dreams and ambitions.

Somehow, the big dreams and ambitions worked out. By the mid-90s Kevin and Valerie had moved to Germany to purse their dream of a life in Europe. Morgane came into the world just a bit after that. Killian, a few years later. Meanwhile, Jen and I remained in DC pursuing our dream of repairing the world. For Jen, this means repairing it person-by-person. For me, it means repairing government. Sam came into the world about a year after Morgane. Ella followed about a year or so after Killian. And so, we all had these babies that needed attention.

The Copps and Shermans stayed in contact over the years but didnt' see much of each other. But the bond had been established and the fates were sealed.

In 2009, the Copps moved to Athens. So, sensing an opportunity because we were already going to be in Israel -- not terribly far from Greece -- we created the Athens excursion.

The priority, therefore, has been on reconnecting with our friends and we've accomplished that goal in a big way. We've done a fair amount of just hanging out over the past couple of days, eating, drinking, laughing, remembering. Letting the kids get to know each other better. On Sunday, we chilled at the Copp villa in Kifissia, partaking of the pool and Valerie's exquisite eggplant parmesan and stuffed tomatoes.
The Copp villa rises above Kifissia...

Remember: It's Greece so almost every place has an interesting history. Kifissia dates back to ancient times, along with the ancient municipality of Epicephesia. It was the home of the famous dramatist Menander (circa 342-291 BC).[3] Kifissia had become a famous retreat of philosophers during the reign of the Roman emperor Hadrian, when the wealthy Herodes Atticus of Marathon, Greece built the Villa Kifissia.

On Monday, we ventured to the beach at Marathon. Marathon (Demotic Greek: Μαραθώνας, Marathónas; Attic/ Katharevousa: Μαραθών, Marathṓn) is an ancient Greek city-state, a contemporary town in Greece, the site of the battle of Marathon in 490 BC, in which the heavily outnumbered Athenian army defeated the Persians. It's also a place known for sponsoring running races of long distances. To wit: The Marathon Marathon :o)

Frankly, we were just there to sunbathe and eat, which we did in quantity. The Shermans learned that beaches in Greece come with seaside tavernas serving all kinds of great fare and encouraging sloth. I should also add that this venture required driving through the hills of the coast and that Mark was, therefore, assigned the task of driving the manual transmission VW Polo while Kevin drove the automatic transmission Company Car. Now, Mark hasn't driven a manual in, oh, about 17 years, so this was an adventure, especially for Jennifer. But, after a few stalls, failures to release the parking break, and the loss of a hubcap it all went swimmingly.
"Dude, where's my hubcap?" (Fahrfegnugen!)

(About that hubcap: Kevin has many talents, among which is a photgraphic memory. While cavorting at the beach, he related that he'd seen the hubcap fly off at a particular spot on the road (the Shermans were oblivious to the episode, preoccupied as we were with operating the manual transmission) and that he would retrieve it on the way back home. Indeed, following our surf time, about two-thirds of the way back to the compound, Kevin pulled the Company Car to the side of the road, turned on hazard lights, waited for traffic to pass, hopped out of Company Car, scurried to the opposite side of the narrow road, and retrieved the VW hubcap. The hubcap, none too pleased about having missed the ride to the beach, ask Kevin "Vhat took you zo long?" Meanwhile, the Shermans were awed, entertained, and thankful.)
Athena at Poseidon's temple, Cape Sounion

Copp and Sherman Units descend the promontory to the deep blue sea.
 Beware: Seaside tavernas encourage the Mediterranean diet!


Ella and Killian think that life really sucks in Athens.
On Tuesday, we explored Cape Sounion,a promontory located 43 miles southeast of Athens, at the southernmost tip of the Attica peninsula in Greece, on the Aegean. It is the site of ruins of an ancient temple of Poseidon, the god of the sea. After oohing and aahing at the pretty spectacular and simple ruin, the family Copp led the family Sherman down the steep and stony seaside cliff onto the rocks and a into the extraordinarily clear and indigo Aegean waters. Swimming with Poseidon's spirit is pretty cool! Then, more great food at a(nother) seaside taverna down the road and, on the way back to Athens, a stop at the Glyfada beach for a sunset swim, libation, and backgammon lesson.
'Gammon Master Morgane (aka "The Goddaughter") teaches the neophytes

The beach at Glyfada: Enough said.
These languid, sun washed Athens summer days....

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

"Ashley the 'It Girl'" Invades the Holy Land....

And now for something completely different! Ella's "Ashley the 'It Girl'" comes to the Caves of Qumran Cafeteria...

Sounds Like Greek to Us


So, we wrapped up the Israel leg of the journey a couple of days ago and are now in Athens visiting with our friends, the Copps -- Kevin, Valerie, Morgane (my goddaughter), and Killian.

We spent our final day in the Holy Land being very unholy.  First, we said our goodbyes to Rikki and Dubie at the Safed Inn, packed up the car, and drove 2.5 hours south to Ben Gurion airport to drop off our rental car -- all on Shabbat.  How unholy. I'm sure the Lord will find a way to punish us.

We cabbed from the airport to a hotel on HaYarkon Street in north central Tel Aviv, across the street from the beach, for a final afternoon of Mediterranean surf time with several thousand of our closest friends.  We scouted for some lounge chairs and an umbrella, paid our 20 shekels for the privilege, and then dipped.  After that, we didn't see the kids for about three hours.  They swam.  Jen read.  I vegged. (It was the Day of Rest, after all.)

In the evening, we celebrated Havdala (the end of the sabbath) by obtaining a truly authentic Middle Eastern meal of burgers, fries, sangria, and sodas, at the Agadir Burger Bar on Nachalat Binyamin Street.  Sam was pleasantly shocked that he was able to have a large burger topped with both cheese (thou shalt not boil a kid in its mother's milk) and -- don't say it -- yes--- BACON! AGGGHHH. WE ARE DOOMED.  BACON AND CHEESE ON A BEEF BURGER IN TEL AVIV? WERE WE MAD? WERE WE REBELLING? NO, WE'RE SEMI-OBSERVANT, OVERLY SECULAR AMERICAN JEWS AND WE LIKE OUR DAMNED BACON CHEESBURGERS, OK?

And that is why we looooove Tel Aviv. 

After dinner, weighed down by our unkosher, uholy foods, we slogged back to the hotel and hit the sack.  We'd be waking up at 3:00am to get to the airport by 4:00am, three hours prior to our flight.  By 9am, we'd be in Greece.
A 7am flight to Athens from Tel Aviv cures insomnia.

Our visit to Israel was and extraordinary experience on many levels.  I need to take time to really reflect on it, so I'm not going to write about it now.  What I will say now, however, is that even though I tried not to have expectations heading into it, I did have them.  And, in most ways, those expectations were met.  In other ways, however, they were not. This is all strangely comforting.  I don't know yet how Jen and the kids feel about it, but I've gotten the sense that they feel similarly.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Rabbi Shmuel Zavel ben Moshe v' Yonina takes us back to the days of Genesis...

Rav Shmuel expounds on the wonders of the Land of Milk and Honey with the help of some friends (please ignore the vehicles)...